Beziers Express
A quick weekend tour of this elegant and ancient city will reveal history, shady boulevards, stunning views and some fine dining hospitality. Welcome to the REAL south of France.
When To Go
Beziers looks arguably at its best in its spring sunshine. This is the best time to visit before the summer holiday crowds descend and the heat of the sun is turned up to the maximum. Throughout the year many a fete is held including the now famous Feria in August and medieval fair in May. In the autumn, the crowds have dispersed but there is still warm sunshine and towards December, the town comes alive with festive cheer, Christmas markets and fantastic illuminations.
Touch Down
Ryanair operates weekly flights from Edinburgh, London Luton, Manchester and Bristol with seasonal flights from Norway, Sweden and Germany. Flybe also offer seasonal flights from Southampton. The airport is situated about 15km south east of the town with shuttle buses from the airport to the railway and bus station timed with each arriving flight.
Getting Your Bearings
Set above the River Orb, Beziers dates back to pre-Roman times, so it’s worth bearing in mind that the medieval streets of its old town were built over an even more ancient settlement. The main sights lie in this small and very walk able area. It is bounded to the west by the river and to the east by the wide and shady boulevard Alles Paul Riquet, which was constructed on the site of the old city walls. Beziers large Cathedral is testimony to the town’s historic power and importance and it towers over the river on the western edge. To the north lies the Cimetiere Vieux, a 19th-century addition filed with opulent mausoleums that reflect the wealth of the area. More indications of 19th-century prosperity lie to the eastern edge of Alles Paul Riquet, where large mansions of well to do vineyard owners were built. To the south are two more impressive contributions from the 1800s, the charming park of Plateau des Poetes and, below, the elegant railway station.
Check In
Maison De L’Orb is one of the finer old houses of the 1800s, once the focal point of the long ago Beziers Plage. The former boat wash house stands in the garden. During WWII, the house was used a “safe house” for those fleeing the occupied zone and the cellars were used by local resistance groups. The house is ideally situated on the banks of the River Orb with stunning views of Pont Vieux, the oldest bridge in the area and the amphitheatre Pont Vieux.
Take A View
There are stunning views from Beziers magnificent Romanesque Cathedral St-Nazaire. From the cathedral square by Place de la Revolution, you gaze west over the outlaying countryside. However, there is a local myth and that is if you can see the Pyrenees, it will rain within forty eight hours. Enter the cathedrals cloisters which date from the 13th-century. A small staircase to the right leads don to the formal Jardin des Eveques that once belonged to the bishop of Beziers. From its terrace, there is a great view south west across the terracotta rooftops of the town and over the bridges across the River Orb.
Take A Hike
At the cathedral, you are well placed to start an amble around the intriguing narrow lanes of the old town. Its buildings date from medieval day, although many were revamped in the 17th-century and again after WW11 including the bishops palace which is now the Palais de Justice.Turn right down Rue Massol and left into Rue de Bonsi continuing on to the wide Avenue Alphonse Mas. Street names are given in French on blue plagues and in Occitan on cream plagues. Occitan is still taught to children today, though like Latin, rarely spoken. From the Avenue Alphonse Mas take a look into the food halls and journey on through narrow cobbled streets until you reach Alles Paul Riquet.
Lunch
Bezier locals would blanch at the idea of skimping on lunch. There are many good places to eat in Beziers including La Latin opposite the food halls or for lunch with the locals, try L’Opera just by the theatre. Expect to pay around 10€ for Plat De Jour. During the summer many “pop up” restaurants appear by the river L’Orb.
Window Shopping
The old town’s main shopping streets are Rue 4 Septembre, Rue Mairan and Rue Françoise. Head to the art shop Galerie Mercure at 8 Place de Trois Six to see contemporary paintings in a fine 19th-century mansion. For modern design and funky home ware make for Architru & Balthaz’art at 5 Rue de Monmorency. Meanwhile, there’s a Galerie Lafayette and Monoprix opposite the theatre on Alle Paul Riquet and an abundance of boutiques and shops in the Polygon Centre situated close to the railway station.
An Aperitif
Join in in-crowd at Café Des Arts just by the theatre of sip café and watch the world go by at Cafe Comedia in the Paul Riquet. Wit tables spilling outside, most bars and cafes serve an enormous variety of Languedoc wines along with Spanish-style tapas dishes.
Dining With The Locals
We all have our favourite restaurants which we recommend - simply ask.
Sunday Morning – Go To Church
Dating from the 11th-century, the church of Ste Madeline in a serene Romanesque building. For local residents it is a seminal landmark, it was here in 1209, that the notorious massacre of 7,000 citizens took place, they were taking refuge from anti-Cathar Crusaders and were burned alive. The church is also open during the week at certain hours.
Cultural Afternoon
Beziers has six museums and are all well worth a visit. The Beaux-Arts museum at Place de La Revolution offers a collection of paintings from the 17th to 19th-centuries and an exhibition on Beziers born Resistance hero Jean Moulin. Another outlet of this museum at Rue Capus is dedicated to Jean and Beziers-born sculptor Jean-Antonie Injalbert, some of whose 19th-century art can be seen around the town.
A Walk In The Park
Take a stroll around Plateau des Poetes, created in 1863 as an attractive green space to welcome visitors now arriving at the railway station just below.
